The Legend of Father Emmet Engel: Alaska’s Monk Winemaker
Once upon a time in Alaska, a singular monk named Father Emmet Engel pioneered an exceptional beverage: milk wine. Engel, who ran the only monastery and winery in Alaska, was a colorful figure steeped in eccentricity and adventure.
Born on 1901 in Wisconsin, Engel moved to Anchorage during World War II with his brother George, initially finding success in landscaping. However, a spiritual awakening led him back to priesthood after his ordination in 1949. Alongside his religious duties, his passion for homebrewing blossomed, inspired by what he claimed was divine guidance.
By 1948, Engel was brewing milk wine in a place he dubbed the Casa de San Jose Monastery, near Palmer. This unique product, made primarily from non-fat powdered milk, mingled with yeast and cane sugar, attracted both intrigue and skepticism from the public. In 1972, Anchorage Daily News reporter Molly Bowditch documented Engel’s process, revealing a complex system that drew considerable attention.
Engel marketed milk wine as “miraculous,” claiming it was hangover-free and a health cure. While some found its honey-colored appearance appealing, others criticized it for tangy and murky flavors. Despite mixed reviews, Engel’s operation surged in popularity, peaking with promotions, tastings, and even a franchise model.
However, he faced repeated inspections revealing unsanitary conditions, leading to legal struggles and allegations of bootlegging. Engel, unperturbed, maintained his beliefs about the heavenly nature of his product, creating a unique legacy. He passed away in 1986, remembered as both a deterred priest and an unconventional entrepreneur, forever intertwining faith and ferment.
David Reamer’s series chronicling Alaska’s history invites readers to explore more tales from the Last Frontier.
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